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welding table
by：Dajin caster
2020-06-15
This is a welded table and I designed inspiration from many different tables I found on various websites.
I want a table that is easy to build and cheap to use anywhere on the top and has a flat working surface.
That\'s what I came up!
By regulation 11 (1/8\")
Rectangular tubes of 3 sizes: 6 \"x2\", 3 \"x2\" and 2 \"x2 \".
I decided to use the 6 \"x 2\" tube as it was much cheaper than the 6 \"x 2\" x 1/2 \"board and was 24 times stiff.
I fixed the working face bolts on the frame to prevent bending during welding, so I can easily replace them if needed.
The price of metal is about $250 and the price of casters is about $60.
Google Sketchup provides this complete form.
Cut, drill and dig the partition to 1/2 \"-13.
I use a fixture to position the gasket when drilling.
I put an \"x\" in the same corner of each gasket so I can keep them in the same direction during assembly.
This will help minimize production errors.
View main sub-
Frame beam for straight line.
If they are completely bent, drill holes on one side with the largest radius (
Curved \"outside \").
When welded to the beam, drill 3/4 of the hole, where the partition hole will be welded. The over-
The size hole on the beam ensures that there is no material blockage in the bolts passing through the partition.
Drill two 1/2 holes on scrap metal sheet 7-1/2\" apart.
You will use it as a placement guide for the partition.
Position the first partition plate accurately on the beam and weld it in place. Thread a 1/2\"-
13 bolts pass through a hole in the guide rail and enter the adhesive welding partition.
Position the opening hole on the guide rail on the next hole on the beam.
Place the spacer between the beam and the guide rail.
Screw another bolt into the gasket through the guide rail.
Center the gasket on the beam and fix the weld in place.
Continue the process with the rest of the spacers.
Using the guide rail will ensure that the holes on the gasket are exactly the same distance between each other.
Repeat the second childframe beam.
Welding the gasket to the beam is likely to cause some bending.
Place a straight edge long enough to cover all the spacers at the top of the beam.
There is about 1/8 gap between me.
I bent the beam back \"very straight\" with some chain and hydraulic jacks \".
It\'s easier to use hydraulic pressure, but I don\'t.
You can see in the last photo that when the beam is placed at the top of each other, there is almost no gap between the spacers.
I was. . . 018\".
This is enough for me!
Cut the working face into length.
Drill 1/2 \"one side hole, center 4\" from both ends \".
Make sure these parts are flat!
Discard them if they are bent (
Or try bending them so they are flat).
The flatness of the working face depends on two things: the flatness of the main pair
Frame beam, flatness of working surface parts.
The next part is a bit tricky.
Use 1 \"long 1/2 \"-
13 bolts, Bolt all working parts to the subframe beams.
Make sure everything is square and press the bolts tight.
Make sure everything is square and then in the sub
Cross support of frame.
If everything is flat then you can go!
Nothing complicated here.
Make sure everything is square!
These are square tubes of 2 \"x 2.
1 \"circular tube for tool hangar (I used EMT).
I position the top of the circular tube 3-
1/2 down from the surface above.
I cut about 1 \"oversized expanded metal rack in both directions.
Then I folded 1/2 on each side
Cut out the corner).
Make sure the top of the mesh is flush with the top of the support and Weld in place. I welded 1/2\"-
2 13 nuts on the \"x 1/8\" board.
Before the nut is welded, be sure to drill a 5/8 hole in the center of the plate.
Then Weld to the plate on the leg.
Obviously, use the same nut as the thread on the casters.
I have used 4 casters with wheel lock with a rated power of 350 per caster.
I decided to make a removable wooden top so that I could also use this welding table as a workbench!
It is a \"plywood with two\" x4 \"on it \".
I used two 1/2 plywood sheets because that\'s how I laid them.
I had to get off the plane a bit at 2 \"x 4\" s so that they could fit into the gap of the working face.
The electrical box is a four.
There\'s a gang box with an extension cord coming out of it.
I screwed it on a beam. That\'s it!
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions! Happy welding!
I want a table that is easy to build and cheap to use anywhere on the top and has a flat working surface.
That\'s what I came up!
By regulation 11 (1/8\")
Rectangular tubes of 3 sizes: 6 \"x2\", 3 \"x2\" and 2 \"x2 \".
I decided to use the 6 \"x 2\" tube as it was much cheaper than the 6 \"x 2\" x 1/2 \"board and was 24 times stiff.
I fixed the working face bolts on the frame to prevent bending during welding, so I can easily replace them if needed.
The price of metal is about $250 and the price of casters is about $60.
Google Sketchup provides this complete form.
Cut, drill and dig the partition to 1/2 \"-13.
I use a fixture to position the gasket when drilling.
I put an \"x\" in the same corner of each gasket so I can keep them in the same direction during assembly.
This will help minimize production errors.
View main sub-
Frame beam for straight line.
If they are completely bent, drill holes on one side with the largest radius (
Curved \"outside \").
When welded to the beam, drill 3/4 of the hole, where the partition hole will be welded. The over-
The size hole on the beam ensures that there is no material blockage in the bolts passing through the partition.
Drill two 1/2 holes on scrap metal sheet 7-1/2\" apart.
You will use it as a placement guide for the partition.
Position the first partition plate accurately on the beam and weld it in place. Thread a 1/2\"-
13 bolts pass through a hole in the guide rail and enter the adhesive welding partition.
Position the opening hole on the guide rail on the next hole on the beam.
Place the spacer between the beam and the guide rail.
Screw another bolt into the gasket through the guide rail.
Center the gasket on the beam and fix the weld in place.
Continue the process with the rest of the spacers.
Using the guide rail will ensure that the holes on the gasket are exactly the same distance between each other.
Repeat the second childframe beam.
Welding the gasket to the beam is likely to cause some bending.
Place a straight edge long enough to cover all the spacers at the top of the beam.
There is about 1/8 gap between me.
I bent the beam back \"very straight\" with some chain and hydraulic jacks \".
It\'s easier to use hydraulic pressure, but I don\'t.
You can see in the last photo that when the beam is placed at the top of each other, there is almost no gap between the spacers.
I was. . . 018\".
This is enough for me!
Cut the working face into length.
Drill 1/2 \"one side hole, center 4\" from both ends \".
Make sure these parts are flat!
Discard them if they are bent (
Or try bending them so they are flat).
The flatness of the working face depends on two things: the flatness of the main pair
Frame beam, flatness of working surface parts.
The next part is a bit tricky.
Use 1 \"long 1/2 \"-
13 bolts, Bolt all working parts to the subframe beams.
Make sure everything is square and press the bolts tight.
Make sure everything is square and then in the sub
Cross support of frame.
If everything is flat then you can go!
Nothing complicated here.
Make sure everything is square!
These are square tubes of 2 \"x 2.
1 \"circular tube for tool hangar (I used EMT).
I position the top of the circular tube 3-
1/2 down from the surface above.
I cut about 1 \"oversized expanded metal rack in both directions.
Then I folded 1/2 on each side
Cut out the corner).
Make sure the top of the mesh is flush with the top of the support and Weld in place. I welded 1/2\"-
2 13 nuts on the \"x 1/8\" board.
Before the nut is welded, be sure to drill a 5/8 hole in the center of the plate.
Then Weld to the plate on the leg.
Obviously, use the same nut as the thread on the casters.
I have used 4 casters with wheel lock with a rated power of 350 per caster.
I decided to make a removable wooden top so that I could also use this welding table as a workbench!
It is a \"plywood with two\" x4 \"on it \".
I used two 1/2 plywood sheets because that\'s how I laid them.
I had to get off the plane a bit at 2 \"x 4\" s so that they could fit into the gap of the working face.
The electrical box is a four.
There\'s a gang box with an extension cord coming out of it.
I screwed it on a beam. That\'s it!
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions! Happy welding!
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