rolling barn door

The head of campus outreach at my college said he wanted to build some kind of door to separate his open kitchen from their living room/study room.
I told him that a sliding barn door was perfect and I was ready to build one with him.
I put it again. 70-year-
The old fence wood I could reach, he took the chance.
I showed him a lot of different styles of doors and we all ended up with a plate door with variable dimensions.
The door needs 83 \"high 78\" wide to cover the crowding of the door.
We decided to use the rolling system instead of the sliding system because the minimum price for sliding is $120 and our price is $40.
We used 4 casters and a metal tube with two T attached to the door to prevent tilt.
Instead of trying to find 15 (15*~5” =75”)
For the door, we decided to divide 78 \"in different ways and use smaller boards.
This will allow the use of more of each 12\' section, rather than having to waste it because of half of the bow or curve.
We used a combination of: 24 \"54\", 36 \"42\", 39 \"39\" and 26 \"26\" to change the position of the board arrangement.
I\'m about 20-
Make sure I have enough fence boards to complete this project (
Initially, the support behind will also be fence wood).
I cut 5 pairs in each group, and then we randomly divided them into 3 groups, 5 pairs in each group.
When we lay them out, we make sure that no cracks are arranged or repeated in any form.
I tore all the pieces so the cookies would have flat edges.
We put them back in the order of the doors, and marked the pair boards that cut the cookies.
Customer Joey helped cut all the cookies while I tore off another set of boards.
We took them to the next room and put them on the pipe clip to be glued. (
Unfortunately I forgot to record this step with pictures)
We stick a set of boards at a time and let it dry before adding a second set.
We piled up additional guardrail boards between pipes to help support the door as not all the components extend to both pipes.
We filled any cracks and knots that would not close with wood filler and spackle.
We then spent hours polishing both sides of the door.
We used an asp and Sander to knock the wood down and used two hands and a track Sander to flatten everything.
We used 60 sand and the customer didn\'t need/didn\'t want the door to be very smooth.
Once the whole door is stuck together, it\'s time to build the support frame at the back.
We chose to use 2x4 \"s instead of fence wood so that the door would be stronger and thicker for the pipe holder/caster wheels.
I used a simple square profile pattern with two vertical slats in the middle.
I put the corner and the two pieces in the middle together and put the whole frame together.
I then drilled the guide holes around the entire frame to make sure that on the side of the frame running vertically, each plate arranged at least two screws.
Then, I will clamp both sides of the hole I am drilling into so that before I screw into the hole, the plate below will be pressed on 2x4.
I sink all the screws so I can punch the holes out and smooth the back support frame.
I filled all the holes and then polished the frame out with 220 sand.
Now that the whole door is connected, I took a router, a round saw, a hand saw, a jigsaw puzzle and a sander to clean up the edges to match the frame.
Different areas require different tools, there are more planning, and the saw and fixture are the easiest.
I polish the edges with a 60 belt grinder.
Joey had previously helped build his kitchen table, which was covered with \"espresso\" and he wanted the door to match.
We purchased two cans of Poly/dyed espresso for the support stand and the front, and satin Poly on the back.
We made the back first and be careful not to leave stains on the back as he wanted the wood to stay natural.
After a few hours of drying, we stood at the door and stained the front with a jar and a quarter of stains.
We did our best to get all the edges, but once installed some of them were decorated.
Although I don\'t have a picture, the support system for the door is fairly simple.
We went to Lowes and found 1 \"10\' and 3\' metal pipe and welded it together at 13\' because Lowes didn\'t sell the pipe that long.
We bought two 1 \"floor flanges, two 90 * elbows.
All this adds up to the highest track of the door.
We then bought two 1 1/4 \"T\", two 1 1/4 \"off reading, two 1 1/4\" floor flanges to attach the door to the track.
I cut two layers of flange with a metal saw, so the base is now a rectangle that fits the top of the door, not the full circle.
T slides on the track and does not actually hold the weight of the door just to look and prevent the door from tilting.
We then purchased four 3 \"casters for the bottom.
I took all these parts home and painted them black.
Make sure to get straight casters, otherwise the wheels will rotate around and the effect is not good.
In addition, this door lacks a floor guide to help better prevent the door from tilting or sliding out.
This is very encouraging if the rolling system is used.
We finally got the track and the door ready, so we loaded everything into the truck and went to Joey\'s house.
We asked two other people to help get the barn door to the door and when we unscrew the wheel at the bottom and the T at the top, help to fix it in place.
We passed the tube through T and moved the door to the wall to be fixed.
We bought drywall screws to fit the pipe to the wall, assuming we weren\'t lucky to run into studs nails.
We hit 2 but ended up still using dry wall anchor screws for all 8 holes.
We make sure the pipe is horizontal, but also not dragging on any part of T so there will be minimal friction and resistance from the top.
The door pulls fairly smoothly as a whole, and one problem is that the ground where the door is located is a tile, so the wheels must be flipped with a grouting slot.
Also, randomly, there is a vent where no one can do anything in the middle.
In addition to these two things, the door worked very well and provided excellent privacy and sound cancellation for both rooms.
It is very likely that a handle will be added later, and he will not want it from the beginning of the installation.
As always, please feel free to comment below if you have any questions, comments or inquiries, or email me @ raleihdavisup @ gmail. com ! -